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Pot-Grown, Bare-Root or Root-Balled? How to Buy Plants Well

Quick facts

  • Bare-root stock is lifted from the field while dormant and sold with no soil, at a fraction of the price of a potted plant.
  • Root-balled stock is lifted with its soil intact and wrapped in hessian — the usual way to buy larger evergreens and conifers.
  • A young plant that establishes fast often overtakes a larger one planted beside it within three years.
  • Roots, not top growth, are what you are paying for.

The three production types

Bare-root

Bare-root plants are grown in open ground, lifted while dormant and leafless, and sold with no soil. In Ireland the window runs from about November to March.

They are far the best value for hedging, native trees, young ornamental trees, roses and fruit. Carrying no compost, you get more root for your money, and field-grown roots are used to real soil rather than a peat-based mix. A bare-root whip planted in December is usually ahead of a containerised plant of the same species by its second summer. The one condition is that the roots must never dry out: half an hour of drying wind does real damage, and dead roots do not announce themselves.

Root-balled

Root-balled plants are field-grown, undercut in advance so they make a compact root system, then lifted with a ball of soil wrapped in hessian. This is how hedging yew, box, laurel and larger conifers are sold. Lifting runs from late September to Christmas and again in early spring, and prices sit between bare-root and container.

They are heavy — a 1.5m yew is a two-person job — but they give instant structure no small plant can. Leave the hessian on while you position the plant, then cut the string and fold it into the base of the hole. Natural hessian rots; synthetic wrap and nylon twine do not, and must come off.

Containerised

Container-grown plants have spent their life in a pot and go in any month the ground is workable. You can plant them in leaf or flower, which matters when matching a colour or filling a gap you have just noticed. The trade-offs are cost, compost weight rather than root, and the risk of a circled root system. Some subjects are effectively container-only here — Griselinia littoralis, most Hebe, and the Mediterranean shrubs.

How to inspect a plant before you buy

Do this in the car park, not at home.

  • Look at the compost surface. Liverwort, moss and established weeds mean the plant has sat in that pot a season or more, and it should not cost full price.
  • Slide the pot off. Any decent nursery will let you. You want pale, firm, growing root tips; dark, soft, sour-smelling roots mean it has stood in water.
  • Check for root-bound signs: a solid mat on the outside, thick roots spiralling round the base, roots escaping into the ground beneath the pot.
  • Run your hand up the stem for split bark, strimmer scars, ties cutting in, or a snapped leader.
  • Turn a few leaves over for vine weevil notching, aphids in the shoot tips, scale on stems, whitefly under evergreens. Buying pests is a poor bargain.
  • On bare-root, feel the roots. Flexible and cool, with plenty of fine fibrous root rather than thick stumps. Scratch a stem: green underneath is alive.
  • On root-balled stock, lift the ball. It should hold as one unit; if it wobbles inside the hessian, root contact is broken.

Why the biggest plant is rarely the best buy

There is a strong instinct to take the tallest plant on the bench. Resist it. Large specimens carry a top their disturbed roots cannot support, so they stand still for two or three years while the roots catch up, needing more water and staking throughout. Small and rooted beats big and struggling, nearly every time.

Buy the biggest only where you want instant structure — a clipped yew to close a view, a multi-stem to anchor a corner. Everywhere else, and in hedging especially, buy young; we grow much of our own hedging stock small for that reason. Judge a plant by its ratio of root to shoot, by branching low down, and by shape. A short bushy plant with three shoots from the base beats a leggy one of the same age and twice the height.

Getting them home and holding them until you plant

  • Never leave plants in a hot closed car or open trailer. Wind is worse than sun for bare-root: wrap the roots for the journey.
  • Plant bare-root within a day or two. If you cannot, heel them in — a shallow trench, roots laid in, covered and firmed. They hold for weeks.
  • Keep root-balled plants sheltered with the ball covered in bark, and water the ball, not the foliage.
  • Stand containerised plants out of the wind and check them daily; a pot dries far faster than open ground, and never leave one sitting in standing water.

Common mistakes

  • Paying container prices in January for something available bare-root for a fraction of the cost.
  • Buying bare-root stock left with roots exposed on an open bench in drying wind.
  • Ignoring moss and weed on the compost, the clearest signal of a tired old pot.
  • Choosing the tallest plant in the batch rather than the best-rooted.
  • Buying in a rush in spring, when choice is worst and prices highest.
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HOW MANY PLANTS?

First and foremost, you will need to consider the quantity of plants required to achieve a full looking hedge. We usually recommend 2.5 plants per linear metre for a fully mature hedge. For a semi mature hedge, you can plant 2 plants per metre.

However, different types of hedging plants have different growth habits, so the quantities of plants you may need could vary. it is always best to check with your local nursery.